At a class IV Rapid on the Connecticut River during my Source to Sea Paddle

Last Miles on the AZT

I managed to connect with a trail angel via text. She said she could pick me up in three days at the terminus. Since she was driving in the next morning to pick up another hiker, she would leave some water at the terminus with my name on it. Those arrangements would allow time for my final day’s walk to the end. The next day I could hike the few miles up the dirt road to the slot canyon and spend some time exploring there before finding a place to camp for the night. And I would be picked up in the morning on that third day when she picked up another hiker.

I had a rough night sleeping as some demons from my past were once again circling. They haunted me on and off for the rest of that day. I don’t know if it was because I was reaching the end or not, but either way I was surprised at the level to which they were howling. Thus, I was easy with myself in the morning and took my time I to get going. I only had 14 miles to reach the terminus and unless something unusual happened, I was sure I would finish late that afternoon.

An interesting rock by the side of the trail
I love all the differences in the rocks out here

As I packed up, I was grateful that I was out of the wind. I felt a sense of accomplishment in recognizing that I had fairly good instincts in choosing camp spots. Besides a flat place, free of rocks, pinecones and sticks, I look up to make sure nothing is going to fall on me. I try to make sure I’m not in a ditch that rain will roll into and to stay out of areas that would produce too much condensation for the inside of my tent. I also look for signs of animals, including ants, as I don’t want to pitch a tent right over an ant hill As crazy as it seems it would be easy in the desert to pitch a tent over an active ant colony.

Musk taking a trail break

I was just about to pick up my pack and head off when Laurie and Chaco came by. We hiked together for a while and then came upon Musk at the side of the trail. Unlike Laurie, who had already been walking for 5 miles, Musk was just packing up from his nights rest. There is no one right way to do these hikes and part of their beauty is that they are adaptable to many different routines.

Eventually we all parted ways. Laurie needed to give Chaco a rest in the shade so he wouldn’t overheat. She told us she didn’t think she would finish that day. I kept egging her on telling her I was sure she could. I wanted to celebrate at the end with her and Chaco.

The wind was pretty intense and once again I had an extensive walk through a burned area. When the trees reappeared, they were no longer the Ponderosa Pines. I was now walking through a juniper forest. I’m not sure why, but I found the juniper forest absolutely stunning.

When I was having trouble finding a spot for lunch that was out of the wind, I decided to trade wind protection for the magnificence of sitting in the arms of what felt to be a mother tree. She was one of a number of huge junipers on the side of the trail. I tossed my pack under her bows and snuggled up next to her trunk. I wasn’t out of the wind but I felt very protected. I ate my lunch and enjoyed watching Musk come walking up the trail, carefreely swinging his hiking sticks to music he was listening to. He looked so joyful.

Sitting in the mother tree

He stopped and chatted with me. I tearfully told him about the demons that had been going through my head all last night, and now for much the day. He shared some of what went on inside of his head as he hiked and told me that for him, the secret of letting go of having been wronged was to cultivate humility. When he felt humble, he was able to let go of having been hurt by other people. I found this an interesting concept. I’ve been trying to develop more humility on the trail by not bragging about all of my hiking achievements. Now Musk was giving me another reason to cultivate more humility. I shared with him how I had found the power of gratitude in healing and we parted ways.

Eventually I left the comfort of that mother tree and walked on, passing Musk taking his break a few miles past where I had stopped. After walking through a rocky, sandy wash for a bit, the trail went up and continued along on a high plateau. Views of Utah we’re now quite close. But the trail wasn’t about to let me go easily.

She wasn’t making it easy for me to pass

Just before the trail started a series of many, many switchbacks heading down to the Utah border, I saw a snake crossing the trail. It wasn’t until it completely crossed the trail and I saw the rattles on the end that I knew what kind of snake it was. Yet while I knew it was a rattlesnake, I’m not sure what kind of rattlesnake it was. I’ve seen at least four different types of rattlesnakes on this hike.

I waited for this one to go completely across to the right into the weeds before. I moved. I made a detour off the trail to the left to give it plenty of room. But apparently that snake was not happy with my move. It quickly turned around, curled up and struck out at me. I continued to back up off the trail, but the snake continued to follow me in a very aggressive position. In general rattlesnakes don’t usually strike out at people, but on this trip I had been struck at four times. I wonder if they’re getting revenge on me for the one I killed and ate when I was hiking the Pacific Trail in the 1980s.

Needless to say, I was on high alert after that, but rather than seeing more snakes, the lower I dropped on the trail the more I began to see many of the same cactus blooming that had greeted me in the beginning of my trip. I felt happy to have a sense of a circle in that what I had seen in the beginning was here again at the end.

Some of my old friends back again

As eager as I was to be down off that plateau, I kept stopping to take pictures, although it was hard to get good ones in the wind.

And some new ones I hadn’t seen before

Finally I reached the monument at the end of the trail. Even though I had taken many zero days, I finished on the exact day I had predicted. I had started on March 21 and finished on May 20. In the first pictures I took at the monument, I look both filthy dirty (Ribbon Falls had been my last shower ) and exhausted.

My first picture at the terminus

I straddled the two states taking in all of the beauty around me. The rock on the Utah side was quite beautiful.

The rock on the Utah side was lovely

Eventually, I chose a spot in the small campground and set up my tent. It’s a very remote campground with no running water and no fee to stay. There were a few other people there and none of them seemed to want to engage in conversation. I was happy when Musk reached the monument soon after I had arrived. My happiness increased when Treking Pole and Bard arrived. We were all overjoyed when Laurie and Chaco showed up a few hours later. Musk moved on, but the rest of us shared the camp spot I had and enjoyed an evening of staying up later than usual, sharing stories.

We dove into our tents just as a rainstorm hit and we all drifted off to sleep, listening to the patter of rain on our tents.

Laurie, Chaco, Treking Pole, Bard and I at the finish

10 responses to “Last Miles on the AZT”

  1. I am so glad you had the company of hiking friends at the terminus, Mary! Especially after that previous night. It’s a testament to your openness and acceptance of being in the moment that you were able to cultivate camaraderie and then experience it.
    Wow about that rattler— I see it in that video as both threatening and feeling threatened itself. A challenge for hiking where they live.

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    1. Yeah, I’m sure they strike out because they feel threatened. Thanks so much for following me and giving me feedback. It means a lot, and I love your analogies the right word analogies.

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  2. This was truly an amazing adventure to follow. I have to admit I am sad to see these stories come to a finish. but isn’t that always the way, in life, in books, in blogs. Eventually we have to part ways, but thank you for letting me travel with you and thank you for sharing your worries and fears. I battle these everyday. I am the rock for a few in my family, and especially for myself. Sailing our boats carrying a few passengers can get difficult, I get very weary. But reading your words gives me comfort, I know I am not alone in these feelings, and as you relentlessly move forward, so do I. And it was nice traveling with you by my side in spirit for a bit. Thankyou for being my rock for awhile. Good rocks are hard to find.

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    1. Thank you so much for this rose and for following me sometimes when I’m out here, I feel completely alone and I have no idea how much or if my writing means anything to anyone so getting this feedback keeps me going and motivates me to keep writing there will be still a few more posts coming outand of course, when I start the Pacific Northwest Trail, there will be even more. Thanks so much for hiking along with me and good luck with everything in your life.

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  3. I got cut off before finishing my comment!—

    As I have already told you elsewhere, Congratulations on sticking with and completing this very challenging trail. You have new accomplishments under your belt and new memories and experiences with which to better tame the demons of your past.

    ❤️

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  4. Thank you again for the stories and personal insights on your journey of trails and life. Humility is a lovely insight. Cactus flowers are spectacular. And your trail friends make it all so much better. Just continue to be respectful of those snakes. Hope you feel the love and friendship vibes I try to send you. K

    Karen Deets Stained Glass 728 Moscow Rd. Fair Haven, VT 05743 802-265-8668

    http://www.karendeets.com

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  5. nphillips4af9275d55 Avatar
    nphillips4af9275d55

    It was wonderful that you had friends to celebrate at the end of this epic journey.

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    1. Yes, it’s it’s always nice to have somebody with me at the end to celebrate. Otherwise it feels kind of lonely. I want to share it kind of human nature.

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  6. Wow! you did it – finishing on the exact day you predicted! It’s wonderful how fellow hikers are part of your journey. Glad you avoided that snake and didn’t run into a lot more.

    Now for some rest before the next train!

    love,

    Susan

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  7. Yeah! You made it! Now please rest, rest, rest! Hugs! Nanette

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